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  • Testing pond water. This is straight forward and is done by using special kits. Look out for expiry dates since chemicals used for testing are sensitive to time. Do not get carried away with the test results. After all they are indications only. The good reason for testing is to check stability or consistency and not absolute values. When you see a definite change then start testing. If you do test make sure you do the tests at same time every day and record the results on a graph so you can notice any significant changes. One-off results should always be treated with great circumspection. all about ponds and waterfalls

  • Vegetable BioFilters ... Aquatic Plants For Gold Fish and Koi Ponds The idea of using vegetable filters (also called veggie filters is an area where plants are deliberately grown en masse) to remove algae for Nitrate control and green water control is not new by any means. It has found use in systems where people do not want or cannot afford UV systems. Concerns expressed about vegetable filters include blocking of pump impellers by stray roots and leaves. Some plants would be worse than others ... eg water hyacinth. Despite this they are excellent nitrogen removers. An ideal plant to use is Azolla also called Fairy Moss. It grows extremely quickly and is capable of removing large amounts of nitrogen and of course carbon through photosynthesis. It is also easy to remove simply by netting in the event it over-runs the filter area. http://www.pond-solutions.co.uk/pjmvegfilter.htm water gardens and pond filters

  • Brushes in biofilters. Ask yourself why do you use brushes? Do you really need them ... possibly not. They do add to the cost without creating a major benefit in most small biofilters. Brushes in off the shelf conventional biofilters have such big gaps in them the only purpose they can serve is to remove long stands such as twigs, lengths of algae etc. For this purpose they are obviously fine .... is this what you want to achieve? For any other reason they are unsuitable. They don't do any harm ... they just make you poorer. biological pond filters

  • Ponds in winter ... Something very strange happens to water at 4C (39F). Instead of warmer less dense water being at the surface, as in the summer, the density changes and the water that is closest to freezing becomes the least dense and floats to the top. The result is that the bottom stays at a fairly steady temperature under a blanket of cold or frozen water. If the pool freezes, there is nothing to worry about for a few days. There is plenty of oxygen in cold water even if the fish needed it. But if there is any rotting matter in the bottom of the pool, toxic gases produced in the muck could build up. In order to maintain gaseous exchange between the water and the air, float a ball or a piece of wood in the pool. all about ponds and waterfalls

  • This one sounds a bit crazy but works. Your fish will learn to recognise you especially if you feed them. To speed up this process move your hands as you approach the pond (or do something similar) ... just don't let the neighbours see you. Keep the movement the same every time. bio filter review

  • Winter water gardening ... If the frosts are slow to arrive, the foliage factor from some of the variegated water plants is a major bonus. The sword like leaves of the Iris laevigata Variegata, the variegated scented rush Acorus calamus Variegatus or the small tufty A. gramineus Vareigatus are late to die down and are up early spring, brightening up the most moribund boggy patch. Gardeners garters (Phalaris arundinacea var. picta) add a splash of colour all year, but are somewhat rampant and difficult to contain after the first year floating pond plants

  • This one sounds a bit crazy but works. Your fish will learn to recognise you especially if you feed them. To speed up this process move your hands as you approach the pond (or do something similar) ... just don't let the neighbours see you. Keep the movement the same every time. bio filter review

  • Not got a biological filter? Then all the microbial activity that happens in biological filters has to happen in the bottom of the pool. All the muck that falls has to be digested by bacteria down there. But with the advent of winter this activity slows right down at a time of year when the potential load is increased by falling autumn leaves. Any leaves that have found their way in to the pool need to be dredged out with a net. Leave the resulting muck to drain away on the side of the pool for 24 hours. This will give time for any wildlife to make its way back into the pool. using pond filters for clean ponds

  • Testing pond water. This is straight forward and is done by using special kits. Look out for expiry dates since chemicals used for testing are sensitive to time. Do not get carried away with the test results. After all they are indications only. The good reason for testing is to check stability or consistency and not absolute values. When you see a definite change then start testing. If you do test make sure you do the tests at same time every day and record the results on a graph so you can notice any significant changes. One-off results should always be treated with great circumspection. all about ponds and waterfalls

  • Avoid spreading fertilisers around the pond area and do your best to prevent water run-off from the garden into the pond. This is often the source of high phosphate content in a pond and the cause of bad algae problems all about water garden fountains

 

Never switch off your pond pump for more than about 60 minutes

Make sure the delivery pipe from the pond pump is not kinked

Must the UV be placed before the biofilter?

A waterfall adds oxygen to a pond by creating a large surface area

Submersible pond pumps can operate against a closed valve

It is a good idea to pump out about 10% of your pond water

Lighting in and around ponds creates a brand new dimension

Sick and tired of looking at debris on the bottom of your pond?

Do not feed more food than what you fish can eat

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